Last updated October 15, 2026
Home Addition Contractor Maintenance Checklist for Orange County Homeowners
Most home addition guides stop the moment the crew leaves. The final walkthrough happens, the check clears, the photos get posted, and then nothing. Nobody tells you that a hairline crack at a new-to-old framing seam in month 18 is normal settling, or that the same crack in month 6 is a red flag worth a phone call. Nobody mentions that Orange County’s marine layer and Santa Ana winds create a maintenance rhythm completely different from anywhere else in California. This guide fills that gap. You’ll learn exactly what to inspect, when to inspect it, and which warnings signs mean call someone versus leave it alone.
Quick Answer
A home addition in Orange County needs seasonal maintenance focused on stucco joints, window flashing, HVAC filters (especially after Santa Ana wind events), and the seam where new construction meets old. Most structural issues from a properly built addition show up within the first 24 months, which is why a written workmanship guarantee matters more than any verbal promise. Follow a simple calendar: inspect seams every spring and fall, reseal stucco in autumn before winter rains, flush mini-split filters after every wind event, and walk the roofline flashing twice a year.
Table of Contents
- The 30-Day Post-Completion Walkthrough: Every Seam, Joint, and Transition Point
- The Orange County Maintenance Calendar: What to Do Each Season
- Normal Settling Cracks vs. Structural Movement: How to Tell the Difference
- What a Written Workmanship Guarantee Should Actually Cover
- The Five Skipped Tasks That Void Manufacturer Warranties
- The New-to-Old Seam: The Most Overlooked Maintenance Point
- Roofline Flashing and Water Intrusion in Orange County’s Rainy Seasons
- Common Mistakes to Avoid
- When to Call a Professional
- Frequently Asked Questions
- The Bottom Line
The 30-Day Post-Completion Walkthrough: Every Seam, Joint, and Transition Point
Thirty days after your home addition is finished, the building has settled into its first full seasonal cycle. Materials have expanded and contracted, the foundation has adjusted to new load paths, and any installation shortcuts start showing themselves. This is the single most important inspection you’ll ever do on a new addition, and it takes about 45 minutes.
Here’s the step-by-step walkthrough we recommend to every homeowner after we finish an home addition in Orange County:
- Walk every interior wall seam. Run your eyes along the entire joint where the new drywall meets the existing house. Look for hairline cracks, tape separation, or nail pops. A nail pop is a small bump or circle where the drywall screw has backed out slightly. One or two is normal. A cluster of five or more in a single wall section means something is moving more than it should.
- Check the ceiling-to-wall transition in every room. This is where framing movement shows first. Look for a continuous crack line running along the ceiling perimeter. A hairline crack that’s consistent and under 1/16 inch is typical settling. A crack that opens wider at one end or runs diagonally down the wall needs a professional look.
- Open and close every window and door in the new space. Doors that stick or windows that bind indicate the rough openings have shifted. In Orange County’s clay-heavy soils, especially in areas like Irvine and Lake Forest, seasonal soil expansion can cause door frames to move by as much as 1/8 inch between wet and dry seasons. If a door was smooth at final inspection and sticks now, that’s soil movement, not a construction defect.
- Inspect the exterior stucco or siding joints. Walk the outside perimeter and look at every seam where new stucco meets old stucco. Small hairline cracks under 1/16 inch are normal. Gaps wider than a credit card edge should be sealed immediately to prevent water intrusion during the next rain.
- Run water in every new bathroom and kitchen fixture. Check under sinks with a flashlight. Look for any moisture at supply line connections and drain traps. Small drips that appear in the first 30 days are usually installation-related and should be called in under your workmanship guarantee.
- Test every electrical outlet and switch in the addition. Plug a small lamp into each outlet, flip each switch several times. Any outlet that feels warm to the touch or any switch that buzzes should be flagged for a return visit.
- Check the crawl space or foundation perimeter. If your addition sits on a raised foundation, look for any standing water, moisture staining on new beams, or pest intrusion. If it’s slab-on-grade, walk the perimeter and look for soil pulling away from the slab edge, which is common in Orange County’s dry summer months.
In our experience across Orange County, roughly one in four new additions needs at least one small fix during the first 30 days. That’s not a sign of bad construction. It’s the nature of joining new structure to old, and it’s exactly why a written workmanship guarantee should be part of every contract before work starts. At Lodgewick ADU Orange County, the 365-Day Done Right Promise covers exactly this: if something’s not right during that first year, we come back and make it right at no charge.
The Orange County Maintenance Calendar: What to Do Each Season
Orange County has a maintenance rhythm that doesn’t match generic national advice. We don’t have freezing winters. We do have a rainy season that runs roughly November through March, a summer marine layer that traps moisture along the coast from Seal Beach down to San Clemente, and Santa Ana wind events that blast dry, dusty air through the canyons from October through February. Each of those forces affects your addition differently.
Fall (October – November): Reseal and Prepare for Rain
October is the month to reseal exterior joints on stucco additions in Orange County. The summer heat has done its expanding, the first Santa Ana winds have started, and the rainy season is weeks away. Here’s the fall checklist:
- Reseal stucco expansion joints and new-to-old seams. Use a quality exterior elastomeric caulk rated for stucco. This is a two-hour job on most additions. Skip it, and winter rain can work into hairline cracks and cause water staining or mold inside wall cavities.
- Clean gutters and downspouts on the addition. Orange County’s fall leaf drop from oaks and sycamores clogs gutters fast, particularly in older neighborhoods like Floral Park in Santa Ana or Old Towne Orange. Clogged gutters mean water backs up under the roofline flashing, right where your addition ties into the original roof.
- Inspect roof flashing at the new-to-old roofline junction. Look for lifted flashing, cracked sealant, or debris accumulation. Flashing failures are the number one source of leaks in home additions, and they always show themselves during the first heavy rain of winter.
Winter (December – February): Storm Response and Moisture Checks
After every significant rain event, do a quick interior check of the addition. Look at ceiling corners for water staining, check window sills for moisture pooling, and feel around exterior wall outlets for any dampness. Orange County gets most of its annual 13 to 15 inches of rain in a handful of intense storms, and those storms find every small gap in your exterior envelope.
For additions in coastal neighborhoods like Costa Mesa, Newport Beach, or Laguna Niguel, the winter marine layer keeps exterior surfaces damp for weeks. Check for mold growth on north-facing stucco walls and under eaves. A simple rinse with a garden hose and mild detergent twice during the winter prevents most cosmetic mold issues.
Spring (March – May): Post-Rain Inspection and Air System Service
Once the rainy season ends, do a full exterior walkthrough. Look for new cracks in stucco, any water staining that emerged over winter, and soil erosion around the foundation perimeter. April and May in Orange County are ideal months for any exterior repairs needed because the weather is dry and temperatures are moderate, which helps sealants and stucco patching cure properly.
Spring is also when you should service your mini-split or HVAC system if the addition included one. The filter in a mini-split catches an enormous amount of dust during Santa Ana season. A clogged filter forces the system to work harder, shortens its lifespan, and in many cases voids the manufacturer’s warranty if documented service isn’t performed. This is one of those maintenance tasks that feels optional and absolutely isn’t.
Summer (June – September): Beat the Heat and Watch for Dry-Soil Movement
Orange County’s summer temperatures regularly push into the 90s inland, stretching from Yorba Linda through Anaheim Hills to Rancho Santa Margarita. That heat expands building materials and dries out the soil around your foundation. Here’s what summer maintenance looks like:
- Check for door sticking and window binding. As noted earlier, clay-heavy soils in parts of Orange County shrink during dry months, which can cause minor foundation movement. If doors start sticking in August that were fine in April, that’s seasonal soil response. Keep it on your radar, but don’t panic unless it’s severe or accompanied by wall cracks.
- Verify sun-facing window seals. Inland Orange County additions get hammered by afternoon sun. Check the sealant around windows on west-facing and south-facing walls. UV exposure breaks down exterior caulk faster than anything else, and replacing deteriorating caulk in summer prevents leaks during next winter’s rains.
- Monitor the addition’s temperature differential. If the new space runs significantly hotter than the original house in summer, that’s a sign of inadequate insulation or air sealing. It should have been addressed at the time of construction, but seasonal thermal testing reveals things you can’t see on plans.
Normal Settling Cracks vs. Structural Movement: How to Tell the Difference
Every new home addition in Orange County will develop some cracking. That’s a fact of construction. New framing lumber loses moisture over its first year, construction adhesives cure, and the foundation compresses the soil beneath it. What matters is telling the difference between expected settling and movement that signals a real problem. Here’s a measurement-based guide you can use without any special tools beyond a pencil and a ruler.
Normal Settling Cracks
- Width: Hairline, typically under 1/16 inch wide. A credit card is about 1/32 inch thick. If the crack is narrower than a credit card, it’s almost certainly cosmetic.
- Location: At drywall seams, ceiling-to-wall transitions, and corners where the new addition meets the original house. These are the joints where different materials and different framing members meet, and they’re designed to flex.
- Pattern: Straight lines that follow a seam or joint. Vertical or horizontal cracks that run along an obvious transition line are typically settling.
- Timing: Appears within the first 12 to 24 months and then stabilizes. The crack may open slightly wider in winter when wood expands with moisture and narrower in summer when it contracts.
- What to do: Cosmetic repair. Fill with a flexible drywall compound or paintable caulk, repaint, and monitor for six months. If it doesn’t return, you’re done.
Structural Movement Indicators
- Width: Cracks wider than 1/8 inch and growing. If you can fit a nickel edge into the crack, call a professional. In the settling versus structural conversation, width is the single most reliable indicator.
- Location: Cracks that run through the middle of a wall, not along a seam. Diagonal cracks radiating from door or window corners are classic structural movement signs. Cracks in the foundation itself, in the stucco corners, or in load-bearing walls all deserve attention.
- Pattern: Diagonal cracks, stair-step cracks in brick or block, or cracks that appear in multiple rooms on the same wall line. A crack that starts at one corner and runs diagonally across the wall to another corner is not settling. That’s movement.
- Timing: Cracks that appear within the first six months and continue growing. A crack that shows up in month 6 and doubles in width by month 12 is a structural red flag worth a professional evaluation.
- What to do: Document with photos from the same angle every two weeks. Mark the crack ends with a pencil and date. If the crack advances past your pencil marks, you have active movement. Call your contractor and request a foundation or structural evaluation.
In our experience building ADUs in Orange County, the majority of homeowner concern calls about cracking turn out to be normal settling. But when it is structural, catching it early saves tens of thousands of dollars. The pencil-mark method costs nothing, takes 30 seconds, and gives you objective data instead of anxiety. That’s the whole point of this guide.
What a Written Workmanship Guarantee Should Actually Cover
Every legitimate home addition contractor offers some kind of workmanship guarantee. The question is what actually matters in writing. A guarantee is only as good as the language in it, and most homeowners never read the exclusion clauses until they’re trying to make a claim.
Here’s what a strong workmanship guarantee should include, and what we put in writing on every project before work begins:
The Non-Negotiables
- Specific duration. “One year” or “10 years” or “lifetime” means nothing without a written definition of what it covers and what it doesn’t. A minimum of one full year is the industry benchmark for workmanship. Anything less and the contractor isn’t standing behind their work.
- Free return visit. If something fails within the guarantee period, the contractor should return at no cost. That means no trip charge, no diagnostic fee, no “we’ll see what we find.” The return trip itself should be free, period.
- Written scope of repair. Before the fix begins, the contractor should provide a written description of what failed, why it failed, and what they’ll do to fix it. If they can’t explain the failure, they don’t understand it.
- Transfer clause. If you sell the house during the guarantee period, does the guarantee transfer to the new owner? A transferable guarantee adds real value to the property and shows the contractor is confident in their work.
What the Lodgewick 365-Day Done Right Promise Covers
Our guarantee is called the 365-Day Done Right Promise, and it’s delivered in writing on every project before a single nail is driven. Here’s what it means in plain English: if the work isn’t right within the first year, we come back and make it right at no charge. That includes a free return visit, written documentation of the issue, and the repair. No exceptions for “normal wear and tear,” no prorated anything, no negotiation about whether the problem is real. If your new addition has a seam that separates, a door that binds, an outlet that fails, or a window that leaks within 365 days of completion, it’s covered.
This is The Kingswell Way, the operating standard that governs every Lodgewick project in Orange County. Say the price before the work. Show up in the window given. Leave the place cleaner than found. Put the guarantee in writing. Come back if it fails. Five commitments, every one of them in writing, every single time.
Before you hire any contractor for a garage conversion in Orange County or a home addition, ask to see the warranty document before signing. Not a summary of it. The actual document. If they hesitate, that’s your answer.
The Five Skipped Tasks That Void Manufacturer Warranties
Your home addition is filled with products that carry their own manufacturer warranties: windows, HVAC equipment, roofing materials, water heaters, and more. Those warranties are not automatic. Each one comes with maintenance requirements, and if you skip them, the manufacturer can deny a warranty claim even if the product itself is defective. Here are the five tasks most homeowners skip that quietly void coverage.
1. Window and Door Seal Maintenance (Typically Annually)
Window manufacturers like Milgard and Marvin, both common in Orange County additions, require homeowners to inspect and maintain the sealant around window and door frames. If water damage occurs because exterior caulk was allowed to deteriorate and crack, the warranty claim gets denied. The task takes an hour once a year with a tube of exterior sealant and a utility knife. We recommend doing it every fall as part of your pre-rain preparation.
2. Mini-Split and HVAC Filter Replacement (Monthly to Quarterly)
This is the big one. Most mini-split manufacturers, including Mitsubishi and Daikin which dominate the Orange County market, require documented filter cleaning or replacement. If your evaporator coil freezes because a clogged filter restricted airflow, that’s a denied warranty claim. In Orange County, Santa Ana wind events dump more particulate into the air than any other season. Clean or replace filters after every significant wind event, and keep a simple log of when you did it.
3. Roof Inspection and Debris Removal (Twice Yearly)
Shingle and tile manufacturers generally require homeowners to keep the roof free of debris and to address any storm damage promptly. For most Orange County additions, this means clearing leaves from the roof valleys and checking that the roofline flashing has not lifted. A roof leak that goes unaddressed for months, causing decking rot, will not be covered by the shingle warranty. It was the homeowner’s responsibility to notice and respond.
4. Stucco Recoating Cycle (Every 7 to 10 Years)
If your addition is stucco, the finish is the water barrier. Stucco coating manufacturers specify a recoat cycle, typically 7 to 10 years depending on sun exposure. In Orange County’s inland communities, UV exposure accelerates coating breakdown. Skip the recoat cycle and have water intrusion behind the stucco, and you’ve voided the coating warranty. This is a common claim denial homeowners never see coming because few people read stucco warranty documents.
5. Water Heater Flush (Annually)
If your addition included a tank-style water heater, the manufacturer requires an annual flush to remove sediment. In Orange County, where water hardness varies by city (Garden Grove and Westminster have notably harder water than coastal communities), sediment builds faster than the national average. A water heater failure caused by sediment accumulation is a denied claim. The flush takes about 20 minutes with a garden hose.
Keep a simple maintenance log. A notebook page with dates and tasks. It takes two minutes per entry and means the difference between a covered warranty repair and paying out of pocket for what should have been a manufacturer responsibility.
The New-to-Old Seam: The Most Overlooked Maintenance Point
The seam where your new addition meets the original house is the single most common source of maintenance issues and the single most overlooked maintenance point in all of Orange County home additions. This seam runs where two structures of different ages, different framing materials, and different settling rates come together. It’s the fault line of your entire addition.
Here’s why this seam needs more attention than anywhere else in your addition:
The original house has fully settled. Depending on its age, it may have been settling for 20, 40, or 60 years. The new addition has not. New foundation footings compress the soil beneath them over their first one to three years. New lumber dries and shrinks. The new roof load transfers differently than the old roof. All of that movement concentrates at the seam.
In Orange County specifically, the moisture differential between the old and new structure compounds this. The original house has decades of paint, sealant, and weather barrier built up. The new addition has fresh materials that are still finding their moisture equilibrium. Coastal homes in cities like Huntington Beach and Dana Point see this most dramatically because the marine layer keeps exterior surfaces fluctuating between damp and dry on a daily cycle during the summer.
How to Maintain the Seam
- Interior seam. Expect cracking at interior drywall joints between old and new construction during the first two years. When a crack appears, wait until the end of the second full year before doing anything permanent. Patching too early means the crack returns. Use a flexible joint compound specifically designed for movement joints, not standard drywall mud. Standard mud cracks again within months because it can’t flex.
- Exterior seam. Inspect exterior new-to-old joints every spring and fall. Use an elastomeric sealant that remains flexible after curing. In Orange County’s climate, this sealant typically lasts 2 to 5 years depending on sun exposure. When it starts pulling away from either surface, it’s time to scrape and replace, not pile more on top.
- Foundation seam. If your addition’s foundation butts against the original foundation, check that the joint between them is intact. This joint should have been detailed with flexible flashing during construction. Over time, that material can degrade. If you notice soil washing into the joint or water collecting there, reseal it before the next rainy season.
- Roofline seam. The roof transition between old and new rooflines needs inspection twice a year. This is the point where most leaks in additions originate. Look for lifted flashing, cracked sealant, or shingles that have shifted. If you see any daylight through the joint from inside the attic, that’s an immediate call.
Our crews at Lodgewick ADU Orange County spend more time detailing new-to-old seams than any other single element of construction. The reason is simple: this seam is where a well-built addition becomes a problem addition, or doesn’t. When it’s done right, maintenance is simple. When it isn’t, you’re chasing cracks and leaks for years.
Roofline Flashing and Water Intrusion in Orange County’s Rainy Seasons
Orange County doesn’t get much rain. On average, 13 to 15 inches per year, most of it falling between December and March. That’s nothing compared to the Pacific Northwest or the Southeast. But the rain we do get comes in concentrated bursts. Atmospheric rivers stalled over the Santa Ana Mountains can dump two or three inches in a single day. Those storms find every small opening in your addition’s roofline.
The trouble is that homeowners underestimate the risk because it only rains a few days a year. A roof flashing small gap might let water in during three storms a year, and that water may dry out between storms. You might never see a ceiling stain. But the water that doesn’t make it to the interior can be doing damage inside the roof assembly, saturating insulation, feeding mold, or slowly rotting sheathing. By the time a stain appears on the ceiling, the problem has been active for months or years.
What to Inspect at the Roofline
- Step flashing at the new-to-old wall junction. Where the addition’s roof meets an existing wall, there should be step flashing installed under the siding or stucco. Check that each piece of step flashing is still tucked under the wall material and not pulling away. Lifted step flashing lets water run behind the siding and down into the wall.
- Valley flashing. If your addition’s roof forms a valley with the original roof, that valley collects a massive volume of water during rain. Debris accumulation in valleys during fall leaf drop is the number one cause of valley flashing failure. Clean valleys during your October maintenance pass.
- Pipe boots and vent flashings. Every plumbing vent and exhaust fan that penetrates the addition’s roof has a rubber boot or flashing. In Orange County’s UV-heavy environment, rubber boots crack and fail in 3 to 5 years. Inspect them every fall and replace boots that show cracking before the rainy season.
- Gutter connections at the transition. Where the new addition’s gutters meet the original house’s gutters, look for leaks at the connection point. A small drip at a gutter joint during a rainstorm directs water against the wall below it, saturating stucco and staining it permanently.
If you find water staining inside the addition, especially in the ceiling corners or around window heads, that’s a call to a professional now, not next month. Water intrusion issues compound. The longer they go unaddressed, the more expensive the repair. In Orange County, with our mild climate and good access to the building envelope, a water intrusion repair caught early is often a few hundred dollars. The same repair after six months of neglect can be thousands.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Waiting for a visible leak before checking the roof. By the time water shows up on a ceiling, the roof assembly has been wet for months. Dry season inspections in Orange County catch flashing failures before the first rain, not after.
- Patching interior cracks with standard drywall compound. Joints between new and old construction need flexible joint compound. Rigid compound cracks again within one seasonal cycle, and you’ll be patching the same crack every six months until you switch materials.
- Ignoring mini-split filters because the unit still works. A mini-split with a clogged filter will keep running, running harder and hotter, until the coil freezes or the compressor fails. Then it’s a several-hundred dollar repair, likely denied under warranty because maintenance wasn’t documented.
- Skipping the fall stucco seal because it looked fine in summer. Summer heat opens tiny gaps in stucco joints. The first winter rain works into those gaps. Sealing in October when temperatures moderate in Orange County means the caulk cures properly and closes those gaps before the water finds them.
- Letting a “small” door-sticking issue slide. A door that sticks in summer and frees up in winter is seasonal soil response and usually benign. A door that sticks in both seasons and gets progressively worse is a foundation movement signal that deserves attention now, not after the warranty period expires.
- Throwing away the construction documents. The plans, permits, inspection records, and warranty documents from your addition should live in a folder for as long as you own the house. If you sell, the next owner needs them. If you need a warranty claim, the manufacturer needs them. This paperwork has real value.
- Waiting past the guarantee period to report an issue. A cracking seam in month 6 is a covered warranty issue. The same seam in month 18, if you never reported it, is a negotiation. Report issues when you first notice them with photos and dates. The guarantee clock doesn’t pause while you wait to see if it gets worse.
When to Call a Professional
Some maintenance tasks are homeowner work. Some are not. Here’s the line: anything involving the structural integrity of the addition, the roof, the electrical system, or a failed warranty item deserves a professional look. A crack wider than 1/8 inch or growing. A water stain that appears after rain. A door that sticks progressively worse with no seasonal pattern. An electrical outlet that’s warm to the touch. Roof flashing that’s visibly lifted or cracked. These are all “call now” situations, not “keep an eye on it” situations.
Lodgewick ADU Orange County offers free estimates for home addition and home addition contractor in Orange County maintenance concerns throughout Orange County. If you’re not sure whether a crack is settling or structural, a phone call is cheaper than guessing wrong. Call (350) 203-6060 and a live person answers, 24 hours a day, seven days a week. No voicemail loops, no chatbot. That’s the way we’ve operated since 2010, and it’s part of the Kingswell Guarantee: our written word on how the work gets done and what happens if something goes wrong.
Frequently Asked Questions
Twice a year is the minimum: once in October before the rainy season begins, and once in April after the rainy season ends. These two inspections catch the issues most likely to cause real damage in Orange County’s climate: failed sealant before water finds it, and moisture intrusion after storms have passed. Homeowners with coastal properties in cities like Newport Beach or San Clemente should add a quick summer walking inspection because the marine layer keeps surfaces damp and encourages mold growth faster than inland properties.
Cosmetic crack repair in Orange County typically runs $150 to $400 for a single interior seam, including flexible joint compound and repainting. Exterior stucco seam resealing runs $200 to $600 depending on the linear footage and how much old caulk needs removal. Structural crack remediation is a different category entirely and depends on the cause, but catching it early usually means a repair in the low thousands rather than tens of thousands. Call (350) 203-6060 for an exact quote on your specific situation; estimates are free and written in advance.
Yes. New framing dries and shrinks, the foundation compresses the soil beneath it, and the new structure settles into its permanent position. Hairline cracks under 1/16 inch at seams and joints are expected during the first 12 to 24 months. What’s not normal is a crack wider than 1/8 inch, a crack that appears in the middle of a wall rather than along a seam, or a crack that keeps growing after the second year. Mark crack ends with a pencil and monitor them every two weeks if you’re concerned. If the crack advances past your marks, call a professional.
Only if the guarantee is in writing and the contractor honors it. The Lodgewick 365-Day Done Right Promise states in writing, on every project, that if the work fails within one year of completion, we return and make it right at no charge. No trip fee, no diagnostic fee, no negotiation. Before you hire any contractor, read the actual guarantee document, not a verbal summary. If the document doesn’t specify the return-trip process in plain language, that’s a warning sign.
Santa Ana winds blow dry, dusty air through Orange County’s canyons, typically from October through February. That dust clogs mini-split and HVAC filters within days. If you run a mini-split during wind season without cleaning the filter, the system strains against restricted airflow. That leads to frozen coils or compressor failure, and the warranty claim gets denied because filter maintenance wasn’t performed. Clean filters after every significant Santa Ana event during wind season. It takes five minutes and the filter is accessible without tools.
Yes, measurably. In Orange County’s real estate market, a well-maintained addition with documented maintenance, transferable warranties, and no deferred sealant or roof issues appraises differently than the same square footage with visible deferred maintenance. Homebuyers in cities like Irvine, Mission Viejo, and Lake Forest are educated buyers. They look at the new-to-old seams. They check the roofline flashing. Documented maintenance tells a buyer the home was cared for, and that translates into stronger offers and fewer renegotiations during escrow.
The Bottom Line
A home addition in Orange County is a major investment that needs a maintenance plan as real as the construction plan. The new-to-old seam, the roofline flashing, and the HVAC filters in your addition need attention at specific times of year, every year. Most of the tasks in this guide take less than an hour each and cost almost nothing in materials. The expensive problems, the structural cracks and water intrusions, are almost always cases where a small maintenance task was skipped too many times. Inspect twice a year, write down what you find, and call a professional when something exceeds the measurements in this guide. That’s the difference between a 30-year addition and a 5-year problem.
Written by Russ Delmar, Owner at Lodgewick ADU Orange County, serving Orange County since 2010.


